• Cleaning and disinfecting with a borate-type solution, and drying surfaces prevents mold growth. Mold will grow on damp surfaces within a couple of days at normal temperatures.
• Reduce moisture levels in the bathroom by running an exhaust fan during and after showers.
• Fix plumbing leaks and seepage to prevent the build-up of moisture and prevent the growth of molds.
• Store clothing dry and clean to prevent growth of mold on clothes.
• Reduce humidity levels by discontinuing use of a humidifier if the relative humidity is more than 40%, and use dehumidifiers and air conditioners when levels of humidity are high.
• Ventilate with outside air during the winter when outside temperatures are colder than indoor temperatures. Ventilating with warm summer air typically increases the air’s relative humidity in a basement.
• Increase the flow of air within your home. Moving furniture away from walls and opening closet doors to permit air circulation limits the growth of molds.
• Prevent condensation. Insulating walls and installing storm or thermal pane windows keeps walls warm and limits condensation.
• In South Carolina we recommend that crawl spaces have a foil-backed insulation or foil-backed foam board. We do not recommend using a fibrous insulation that holds moisture against the wood. Leave open spaces at plumbing lines, around chimneys, porches and steps to make the inspection process easier.
• Have a periodic mold inspection by an MAA-certified professional, and ask for a listing of other trade professionals who are members of the MAA.

If you do decide to clean a small area, take steps to protect you and your family’s health. When handling or cleaning moldy materials, it is important to use a respirator to protect yourself from airborne spores. Ensure good ventilation in the area that you are cleaning. Wear protective clothing that is easily cleaned or discarded. Use rubber gloves; we do not recommend latex gloves due to the fact that some individuals have latex allergies. Ask family members or bystanders to leave the area while it is being cleaned.

Mold should be contained and cleaned as soon as it appears (no larger than a 2’x2’ area), but AFTER the underlying problem has been corrected! Persons cleaning mold should be free of symptoms and allergies. Small areas of mold should be cleaned using a detergent/soapy solution or an appropriate household cleaner. Gloves, disposable coveralls and a respirator should be worn during cleaning. The cleaned area should be dried. Immediately clean all equipment used. Dispose of any sponges, rags, coveralls and gloves used to clean the mold by placing them in a double-plastic bag, tying off, and removing immediately to a garbage can.

If the mold returns quickly or spreads, it may indicate an underlying problem such as a leak. Any underlying moisture problems must be fixed to successfully eliminate mold problems. If mold contamination is extensive (larger than 2’x2’), an MAA-certified mold professional should be consulted.

Mold can sampled by an MAA-certified environmental consultant, mold professional and/or analyzed by an accredited laboratory specializing in microbiology, and these tests can be very expensive. Minimum or maximum testing can be performed, and is situation-dependent. There is no simple and cheap way to sample the air in your home to find out what types of molds are present and where they are airborne. We do not recommend the do-it-yourself home air test sampling kits that have recently become available due to the lack of knowledge of the average individual concerning cross-contamination or appropriate testing procedures. Any individual who is not a trained and certified mold professional will not understand how to determine the appropriate number of samples to take and where best to perform sampling. Further, there is no guarantee that home test sample(s) will be analyzed by an accredited laboratory. If sampling is not performed appropriately, then we feel that a property owner could receive a false sense of security by the use of these kits.

The most effective way to treat mold is to correct the underlying problem and contain, clean, condition and/or remove the affected area(s). However, although we recommend small area cleaning (no more than a 2’x2’ area), for areas of larger growth, we recommend seeking MAA-certified professional services. The reason for this is that cleaning up mold can be hazardous during the cleaning process. You may be exposed to mold, strong detergents and disinfectants. Spore counts can be 10 to 1000 times greater than background levels when mold-contaminated materials are disturbed, and cross-contamination may occur, which may simply make the problem larger at a later date.

Mold Load
There are a variety of simple ways that an individual may decrease his/her total overall mold load:
                      

• Bedding and Clothing:
• Select a cotton towel for a pillow, as it can be washed frequently.
• Bedding should be natural fabrics, such as cotton.
• Damp shoes, boots and tennis shoes should be washed and dried immediately.
• Run more frequent and smaller wash loads and avoid a full hamper of damp and soiled clothing.
• Dry clothes immediately after laundering.
• Worn clothing should be washed before returning to a closet or drawer to avoid problems.
• Home:
• Select a home that is away from moldy areas, that are higher and drier.
• Avoid a heavy accumulation of dust.
• Clean the filters of heaters, humidifiers and air conditioners monthly.
• Purchase furniture that can be easily cleaned or wiped down that is less porous than traditional types of furniture.
• Protect your home from mold by keeping areas under the house dry with cross-ventilation, or in some cases, a vapor barrier may be necessary and/or forced air ventilation.
• Vent the clothes dryer to the outside to help prevent condensation of moisture, but do not vent into the crawl or attic spaces.
• Change air duct filters monthly using a HEPA filter.
• Dry shower curtain, shower or tub with a towel immediately after use.
• Remove dried flowers, which can contain significant mold, dust and dust mites.
• Wash bathroom and kitchen tiles and the grout frequently using a borate-type solution.
• Frequently check corner areas, areas under the sink and behind toilets for mold growth.
• Since trash compactors and garbage disposals can harbor molds if not kept totally clean, clean the compactor with a borate-type solution weekly and run a borate-type solution through the garbage disposal daily.
• Frequently clean and inspect plants, terrariums, greenhouses, etc., as these are sites for mold growth.
• Keep your bathroom well ventilated, dry and clean.
• Problem closets may require a portable room filter.
• Store old newspapers, books and magazines in a well ventilated and dry area.
• If a humidifier is used it must be thoroughly cleaned daily; and do not use these near a stove.
• Maintain areas underneath sinks and dishwashers clutter-free around plumbing pipes, etc.
• Do not use contact paper on shelving or under sinks, as the glues and paper retain moisture and are conducive to mold growth.
• Yard:
• Eliminate conditions of high shade, such as dense overgrown landscaping, due to longer retention periods for dampness.
• Have organic debris removed from perimeter areas of your home, or large masses, piles and bundles of organic debris, because it retains moisture.
• Gardening, raking and mowing the lawn all release molds and need to be avoided by a sensitive individual.
• We recommend the use of a leaf-catcher bag on lawn mowers to help reduce organic materials being left behind by excess organic debris.      

Biological pollutants, also called bioaerosols, come from plant and animal material. Some are generated outside the home, such as pollen, but enter the home through open doors and windows and on people and pets entering the home. Other biological pollutants are generated in the home: mold growth in the home releases spores into the air, animals generate dander, and insects generate excrement and body parts that are small enough to become airborne. Bacteria and viruses are infectious agents that are brought into the home in a number of ways. All of these pollutants are particulates, that is, they are particles so small that they "float" in the air. Larger particles settle out onto surfaces, but very small particles stay suspended indefinitely. Surprisingly, indoor air is usually more contaminated than outdoor air. Contaminants are in the form of gases and fine particles. Household cleaning is generally ineffective in removing gaseous pollutants, but it can affect the concentration of particles in the air. Fine particles (particulates) include dust and smoke that enter a dwelling from outside, as well as particles that are generated inside. Often indoor air is more polluted because most particulates are generated within the living space. Internal sources of particulate contamination are smoke and grease aerosol (airborne particles) from cooking and using self-cleaning ovens; mold and fungal growth from moisture and high humidity; allergens produced by pets, insects and dust mites; toxic lead dust from peeling lead-based paint; and airborne dust from vacuuming and duct cleaning.

Some particulates enter the house in another form and become airborne. The dirt brought in from outside on shoes or pets is deposited on the floor, where it is ground into small particles as it is walked on. The smallest particles are suspended in the air, while the larger ones settle back on the floor, only to be re-ground back onto the flooring. The outside dirt can be a carrier of pesticides, pollen, fungi, bacteria, animal feces and insect parts.

Airborne particles can cause breathing problems and allergies in sensitive individuals and severe health problems for persons with asthma. Controlling the concentration of particulates can help relieve symptoms and prevent disease. We will identify sources of particulate air pollution and means of reducing airborne particles in homes by using effective cleaning methods and other control strategies. Cigarette smoke and pollen are not covered, because household cleaning may not affect their concentrations.

Cooking
Cooking generates heat, humidity and three types of aerosols: solid smoke particles, grease vapor that condenses into semi-liquid particles as it cools, and grease spatter particles from uncovered frying. The self-cleaning oven produces aerosol during the cleaning cycle, and significant amounts pass through the oven’s smoke eliminator into the air. A poorly designed system can increase the haze level in a 12’x14’ kitchen by 700%.

An exhaust fan can divert moisture and some fraction of these particles before they become part of the room air. For a given air flow, a vented range hood is more effective in exhausting moisture and particulates than a ceiling or wall fan because the hood is closer to the generation source. The disadvantage of a re-circulating hood is that it must clean the air it captures before returning it to the room. The most effective hood has an intake configuration that matches the range top, has the highest air flow consistent with a tolerable noise, and is set as close to the range top as permitted by the mechanics of cooking (stirring, viewing food, etc.). Any hood used with a gas range should not generate air currents that will distort the shape of the flame from each burner. A re-circulating hood can be used if a vented hood is not possible, but it must have a series of effective filters: (1) a washable, aluminum-mesh filter to remove grease spatter particles; (2) a pleated, glass-fiber filter to remove smoke; and (3) an activated carbon filter to capture odor. The self-cleaning mode of the oven should never be operated without the exhaust fan on. This is especially true for the initial break-in cycle. Use of an exhaust hood or an effective filtering system in a re-circulating hood reduces cooking contaminants in the house, reducing the need to clean.

Mold and Mildew
Mold and mildew in the home generate spores that become airborne. Some spores settle on other surfaces to generate new mold colonies, while others remain suspended for long periods of time and can be inhaled. Sensitive individuals exhibit allergic reactions. Moisture or a high humidity level is required for mold growth. There are many common places where molds grow. These include:

• Walls, floors, carpeting and on stored materials in damp basements and crawl spaces
• Bathrooms without exhaust fans
• Laundry areas where dryers are not vented outside or clothes are hung to dry
• Homes with new construction materials that have been left uncovered outside prior to installation
• Homes where there have been spills, leaks or other water damage
• Homes where a humidifier or an unvented combustion heater is used

Reducing humidity levels in the home is essential. Shut off or adjust the humidifier if the relative humidity level is more than 50% or if condensation forms on windows. Use exhaust fans vented to the outside when taking baths or showers and when cooking. Vent clothes dryers to the outside, but do not vent in attic or crawl spaces. Do not use unvented kerosene or gas heaters. Repair all plumbing leaks promptly. Do not store natural materials containing high levels of moisture, such as firewood, inside the house. Reduce humidity with a commercial dehumidifier, air conditioner or furnace. Increase the air flow to problem areas.

Keep surfaces clean and dry to remove existing mold colonies and to prevent mold colonies from starting. Hard surfaces that have mold growing on them should be cleaned, disinfected and dried. One of the most effective, least expensive solutions to use for cleaning is a borate-type product. Products with an EPA registration number are reliable disinfectants and have instructions for disinfecting. Appliances that collect or distribute water need to be cleaned and disinfected regularly to prevent mold growth. These include humidifiers, commercial dehumidifiers, air conditioners and refrigerator drip pans.

Crawl Spaces
Crawl spaces should have a vent every 8-10 feet (minimum). The crawl space ground should be as level as possible (depending on the home and its surroundings). The first intent of a vapor barrier is to act as a slide to assist in gliding the air from the vents to reach its flow capacity. The second intent of a vapor barrier is to keep the ground moisture content from rising up onto the structural members. A maximum of 75% of the crawl space should be covered with a vapor barrier, if a vapor barrier is used.

Forced air vents are used when the proper air flow cannot be obtained by other conventional means. The forced air vents should not be used in a standard vent’s place, but should have its own cut-in and may be used in conjunction with a flex-arm to take the outside air to a particular area of the crawl space. The arm should not be placed where it affects other air movements. Keep in mind that there is no such thing as enough fresh air flow; however, lack of fresh air flow allows for many other problems to occur under the home.

Fibrous insulation is not recommended for the Tri-County area of South Carolina, or other relatively warm (year around) parts of the country. This type of insulation holds moisture against the structural members and hides signs of molds and fungus growth. In warmer climates, a foil wrap insulation should be used and in colder climates, a foil foam should be used in lieu of fibrous insulation (install with foil side facing you, not against the structure). These foil types should not surround plumbing lines, chimney areas, or behind steps or porches, because these areas are known to occasionally have moisture problems or leaks within the crawl space. The non-coverage of these areas also allows for additional air flow to assist in drying out after leaks or moisture problems occur, and also allows for easy inspection and identification.

Vacuum Cleaning
Dirt in a carpet or on a hard-surfaced floor are clusters of very fine particles. Cleaning the floor with a broom or vacuum disturbs the dirt particles and causes the smallest ones to become airborne. In perfectly still air, particles smaller than 20 microns (about one-half the diameter of the finest human hair) stay suspended in the air. Vacuum cleaning turns floor dirt into an air pollutant two ways:

• If the air from the vacuum discharges down, it disturbs settled dirt particles and causes them to become airborne. When the cleaner discharges down over a dirty carpet, research shows a 98% increase in household airborne dust concentration in the following two-hour period.
• The bag in the vacuum cleaner is not a perfect filter. A 100-percent efficient filter would have such high resistance to air flow that the vacuum cleaner would not work. The vacuum’s filter bag holds the larger particles and allows the smaller ones to pass into the room air. Using a vacuum cleaner that discharges upward can result in a 35% increase in airborne dust. As a result, the floor is cleaner, but the air is dirtier.

Wet-cleaning hard-surfaced flooring is less likely to cause particles to become airborne than in vacuuming or sweeping. However, good cleaning techniques can help reduce the amount of fine particles discharged from the vacuum cleaner. Begin at an edge of the carpet (in a doorway) with the wand of a canister vacuum. Always work toward uncleaned carpet with the canister behind on cleaned carpet. An upright cleaner or horizontally discharging canister cleaner does not disturb settled dirt particles in the air discharge.

Some vacuum cleaners are designed with blowers that handle high-efficiency (HEPA) filters. The filters capture at least 99.97% of the smallest particles in the discharge air. Because these vacuums are expensive, they may be justified only if someone in the household has severe dust allergies. Less expensive alternatives are the special replacement bags now available, which claim to improve the collection efficiency of older vacuum cleaners. Keep in mind, however, that improved filtration efficiency comes at the expense of airflow, and good vacuum cleaning requires both vacuum and air flow.

A central vacuum system with motor, suction blower, and filter bag installed in the basement or garage may solve several problems of portable cleaners. There is no air discharge into a home’s living space; the vacuum discharge air and small particles are exhausted to the outside. Being isolated from the living area, the motor and blower noise is less evident in the room being vacuumed.

Dust Mites and Animal Dander
Dust mites are microscopic animals that use dead human skin cells as a food source. Dust mite feces and body parts produce various allergens. They cause sensitive individuals to experience sneezing, nasal obstruction and discharge, redness, watering and itching of the eyes, wheezing and difficulty in breathing, and skin rash and itching. For dust mites to reach concentrations high enough to cause problems, certain environmental conditions must exist: a food source of skin cells, relative humidity greater than 45 percent and a uniform temperature of 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Highest concentrations of the mites are found in carpets, fabric-covered partitions or walls, and bedding and mattresses. Persons experiencing chronic symptoms should be tested by an allergist. Pet dander is another allergen. Some individuals can experience allergic symptoms when the dander becomes airborne. Others are sensitive to the saliva of pets.

If a household member is allergic to animal dander, the solution that offers the most relief is to remove the animal from the house. Vacuuming furnishings captures some dander but it does not offer much relief. Several measures are effective in reducing the concentration of dust mites, as well as reducing allergic symptoms in individuals sensitive to dust mites:

• Vacuum-cleaning intensively and regularly (once a week) floors, carpets, fabric covered furniture, mattresses and bed frames. Use a cleaner with a high-efficiency filter, if possible. This is no guarantee of success, because mites and feces are very difficult to pull from carpet.
• Lowering the relative humidity of the room air to below 45% and the temperature to below 68 degrees. The humidity should be reduced even more if the temperature is increased.
• Ventilating with outside air if the infiltration rates (air leakage) naturally are low.
• Using fitted sheets or allergen-tight covers over mattresses.
• Replacing feather and down pillows with those that have synthetic fillings.
• Steam cleaning the carpet and fabric-covered furniture.
• Removing fabric furnishings, such as replacing the carpet with hard-surface flooring.
• Washing bedding in hot water (130 degrees or hotter).

Lead Dust
Paint used on both interior and exterior walls of homes before 1978 contained lead compounds. Dried paint solids can contain up to 40% lead. Paint solids end up on the floor from peeling, chipping, oxidation or abrasion when doors and windows are opened and closed. Young children risk lead poisoning. When they play on the floor where lead dust is present, they put dust-contaminated hands and toys in their mouths. Another source of lead is soil that has been permanently contaminated. The lead comes from the exhaust fumes of vehicles that use leaded gasoline or exterior lead-based paint. Children are at risk when they play on contaminated soil and from contaminated soil tracked into the house.

Vacuum cleaning floors and carpets to remove lead particles is ineffective. It can actually increase the amount of lead dust in the air. Intensive vacuuming with a central vacuum system or a high-efficiency filter will gradually reduce the lead concentration in the carpet. However, many repetitions are needed to reduce the concentration. Two-stage steam cleaning, using special detergents and combining vacuum cleaning with shampooing, also is not very effective. A large proportion of lead remains in the carpet. In severe cases, the only solution is to remove and dispose of the carpet. Repeatedly wet cleaning hard-surface floors and other hard surfaces, such as window sills, is an effective method of removing lead dust. Removing shoes before entering the house or using shoe-cleaning pads at entrances can sharply reduce lead concentrations from contaminated soil.

Air Ducts
Air ducts can be a source of dirt, dust or biological contaminants and create an indoor air problem, but this is rare. Duct cleaning may release contaminants into the home and become the source of a problem. Air distribution ducts in a new home collect construction dust (sawdust, sheetrock dust) during and after installation. With the initial flow of air, construction dust is blown into the rooms through the air supply ducts, and dust in the return air ducts is caught in the furnace filters. After a few days or weeks, only a thin coating of dust remains on the duct surfaces because the dust is caught in the filters. Filters must be inspected regularly and cleaned or replaced every 30 days. As a filter loads with dust and lint, it actually becomes more efficient, but it must be cleaned or replaced because the air flow is gradually reduced.

Several factors can cause dust to cling to duct surfaces. Oily or greasy aerosol produced by cooking and other household activities can attach to the ducts as it passes through. The moisture from bathing or showering, cooking, or improperly vented dryers also acts as an adhesive on duct walls. When winter humidity levels are low, air passing over a sheet metal air duct creates a static-electric charge on the metal surface. The static charge attracts fine particles and the oil or moisture coating holds them. Exhaust vents in the bathroom, from the clothes dryer and from the kitchen range hood expel lint, grease and water vapor. If the home does not have efficient venting, return ducts in the furnace become dust-laden. Air duct cleaning disturbs the thin dust coating on the inside of the ducts. When the fan is running, the unstable dust can be blown into the house.

Duct cleaning is not considered a routine procedure for maintaining a heating and cooling system. Duct cleaning or replacement is justified when there is water damage that causes mold to grow in the ductwork, debris blocks the air flow, dust is seen coming from supply registers, or offensive odors are coming from the ducts. Surface stains near the supply registers, especially from cigarette smoke, are normal and do not justify commercial duct cleaning. MAA-certified duct cleaning professionals employ one or more of these methods: contaminant removal (brushing or vibration plus vacuum cleaning); encapsulation (spraying a sealer into the duct); disinfection (using a fungicide to inhibit the growth of mold); and duct replacement. Before contracting to have ducts cleaned, consumers should require a thorough explanation of the procedures that will be used, and ensuring that the professional is MAA-certified.

The control strategies discussed here include exhausting particulates, lowering humidity and cleaning particulates from surfaces to prevent them from becoming airborne. Residential air cleaners and filtration systems may be considered for removing airborne particles.
      

MOLD INSPECTION, INVESTIGATION, HYGIENE AND REMEDIATION:

For areas which have mold that are greater than 2’x2’, we recommend that a professional listed with the MAA be consulted. Although the main reason is for your personal health and well-being and to prevent cross-contamination, there are other important reasons:

• An MAA-certified mold inspection professional has been specifically trained to make a thorough visual inspection of all areas of the structure;
• An MAA-certified mold investigation professional has been specifically trained to investigate for mold infestations, thoroughly and precisely through testing and sampling, and has the knowledge to do so when justified and safely;
• An MAA-certified mold hygiene professional has been specifically trained to educate the public on how to properly maintain your home or workplace and reduce your risk for additional mold infestation;
• An MAA-certified mold investigation professional has the specialized testing equipment required and sends samples to accredited laboratories for appropriate analysis;
• Laboratory testing for mold not only can confirm its presence, but can also identify the type of mold(s) found;
• MAA-certified mold investigation professionals can inform you as to the quantity and type of mold infestation, and whether additional steps need to be taken;
• If additional steps do need to be taken, the MAA-certified mold hygiene professional is able to write proper protocols for remediation and is properly trained for oversight of that work;
• An MAA-certified investigation professional provides accurate clearance testing;
• An MAA-certified mold professional keeps accurate records concerning the structure and all work performed on the structure; and
• Some MAA-certified mold professionals offer mold bonds.

Is testing necessary? In some cases, a test is not always necessary. A complete mold inspection, from an MAA-certified mold inspector, will determine whether or not testing is necessary. If there is visible mold present, or showing other factors or indications of mold, then an investigation is warranted. Whatever the type of mold, "a moldy home is not a healthy home," and any mold problem should be corrected immediately. There are many factors involved when deciding on whether to further investigation or if testing is needed. If the mold inspector is suspicious or finds just cause, if large areas are contaminated (larger than a 2x2 foot section), or if there are many various areas contaminated, then it is worthwhile to test, and the MAA does recommend doing so. If there are occupants with high susceptibility to infection (recovering surgical patients, those with reduced immunity or who are taking drugs that suppress the immune system), testing is warranted. Also, if there is concern about the type(s) of mold present, testing (and only a lab analysis) can identify this. Testing can warn of potential health problems and can indicate the degree of safeguards and skill needed in clean-up.

Mold growth is almost always due to an excess moisture problem in the area. Solving the moisture problem will slow the process of mold growth, although the existing mold will need to be contained, cleaned and removed. Solving the moisture problem can involve some detective work, and is not always easy. It is not practical for a non-professional to test for the presence of biological contaminants, but if contaminants are suspected, an investigation should be conducted to remove and control them because of the health consequences. Left unchecked, mold can continue to grow and cause health problems for both sensitive and non-sensitive people. When tests are made, they compare types and levels of molds inside the structure to mold types and levels in the outside air.

Mold growing on surfaces can occasionally be seen (it is sometimes invisible) or smelled (it has a musty odor). Mold should be suspected wherever there are water stains, standing water or moist surfaces. Conditions that indicate high humidity levels include condensation on windows or walls, water pooled in the basement and crawl space, rotting wood or other signs of water damage. But mold also grows in wall cavities, under carpets, behind wall coverings, above ceilings, and in other places where moisture can accumulate undetected. Before testing for mold, an inspection by an MAA-certified professional should be made, and then an investigation, if warranted, can be conducted to find building components that are damp or wet.

The MAA offers a number of specialized publications for consumer information. These specialized materials will soon be available online under the "Publications" section, along with the form for ordering, which can be printed for mailing in your request, or you may call the MAA’s offices and request the publications.

So what, specifically, are the roles of these professionals?
The MAA recommends that professionals at each stage of the process be specialized. There are many reasons for this specialization:

• It saves the consumer both time and money, when performed properly, avoiding unnecessary expenses;
• It provides for more affordable mold risk management to a wider economic populace;
• It prevents conflicts of interest within the industry, thereby protecting the consumer, and a wide variety of industries affected by mold issues;
• It provides for verifiable evidence of impartial results and a clear method of impartial documentation for truth in disclosure;
• It promotes integrity of all parties involved;
• It prevents "scare tactics" being used to sell additional unwarranted services;
• It prevents unnecessary "media hype" used for unwarranted personal gain that ultimately costs everyone more money;
• It promotes protection of all individuals concerned in the process: the consumer, the professional, and others who may be affected by any issues involved;
• It raises the standard of services, which promotes higher customer satisfaction and a higher standard for benchmarking purposes;
• It promotes better data analysis exchange with regulatory, scientific and clinical agencies for future scientific research purposes.

The role of a professional MAA-Certified Mold Inspector (CMI)
This professional performs basic mold inspections on residential and commercial properties, consisting of an in-depth visual inspection of ALL of the accessible areas of the structure(s) and submitting a comprehensive report of the findings of that inspection to the client, and suggests, in writing, whether or not there is further need for follow-up investigation. The inspection consists of a number of steps: discussion of the scope of the inspection (what it will involve), signing an agreement for the inspection to be performed, including a confidentiality agreement, an in-depth questionnaire for the client concerning the habits of the inhabitant(s) of the structure, the visual inspection itself, moisture readings taken during the inspection, and conclusion report with recommendations and observations.

MAA-certified Home Inspectors and MAA-certified pest control industry professionals who are qualified to perform CL-100s often also obtain a certification for mold inspection. They make ideal inspectors, since they are already performing inspection work of a similar scope, and they may then offer these services in addition to the general Home Inspection or CL-100 services they may already be providing.

The Certified Mold Inspector (CMI) should NOT be performing any testing or sampling. Testing and sampling are expensive and may not always be warranted.

For example:

The CMI visually observes that there are no water leaks, no previous damages from water or humidity, moisture readings are within acceptable levels in all areas, there is no visible evidence of mold or only controllable amounts of mold are present, and the inhabitants have a good standard of hygiene with no complaints of negative or adverse health symptoms. In this instance, there is no need for sampling or testing.

On the other hand, testing or sampling may be warranted, but still should not be performed by the CMI.

For example:

The CMI visually observes that there was a water leak from an upstairs toilet in the master bedroom. The water leak was old, the leak repaired. The CMI visually observes that an entire 8x10 foot section of wall has a black mold on it in the child’s bedroom downstairs, directly beneath the bathroom. Moisture readings are high and the structure is kept exceptionally warm. The owner of the property did not repair the wall at the time the leak occurred, and plans for repair are being made for next month. The inhabitants otherwise have a good standard of hygiene with no complaints of negative or adverse health symptoms. In this instance, testing is warranted, and the CMI should suggest so in his report. The mold is obvious. But why not sample at that time? Because there may be mold growing between the walls, and between the ceiling and floor where it is not seen. This type of testing should be done by a professional MAA-Certified Mold Investigator, (CMIV), who is trained to know WHERE to test and the TYPE of sampling or testing which will be the most effective and efficient. In this case, we do not need to sample for mold on a wall in which we can SEE it, but it does need to be tested to determine the SCOPE of the infestation, the type of mold in the ENTIRE SCOPE, and be tested with as few samples as possible to keep the cost to the homeowner at a minimum. The CMI’s visual observations and report remain impartial. If the CMI does take a sample or samples, the property owner will still need to call in a CMIV for testing…which means double testing for the property owner, and that’s unwarranted additional expense. And how is that? Well, let’s look at the scope of the CMIV’s function, and you will better understand why.

The role of a professional MAA-Certified Mold Investigator (CMIV)
This professional performs basic mold investigations on residential and commercial properties, consisting of testing and sampling of all NECESSARY accessible areas of the structure(s) and submitting a comprehensive report of the findings of those tests to the client, and should suggest, in writing, whether or not there is further need for follow-up survey with a mold hygienist. The MAA-Certified Mold Investigator (CMIV) will also have previous experience as a CMI. The investigation consists of a number of steps: discussion of the scope of the investigation (what it will involve) and the reasons for why the investigation is warranted, signing an agreement for the investigation to be performed, including a confidentiality agreement, a basic environmental questionnaire for the client concerning the indoor and outdoor environments common to the structure(s), an overview and double-check of the CMI’s report, the actual investigation itself, additional readings taken during the investigation, and conclusion report with recommendations and observations.

Individuals who are highly thorough and have knowledge of structures, and have been trained and certified by the MAA, or those who have a background in some type of testing services from scientific fields, or MAA-certified indoor air quality professionals often also obtain a certification for mold investigation. They make ideal investigators, since they are already performing, or have performed, investigation work of a similar scope, and they may then offer these services in addition to the general services they may already be providing.

When testing and sampling are being performed, it should be unbiased and performed with a high degree of accuracy, efficiency and to scientific guidelines and principles. The CMIV should NOT be the same individual as your Inspector, nor should they be recommending remediation.

For Example:

From the second example above under the CMI, the CMIV arrives on the premises. During his investigation he discovers during his walk-through of the noted areas that the CMI missed an apparent leak stain near the floor in a hall closet upstairs located next to the bathroom. The CMIV notes this finding on his report, correcting the oversight of the CMI; and notes that now a test must be taken nearer to this area, which would not otherwise have been completed if there had not been a finding in the closet. CMIV will test and/or sample only in areas which he deems NECESSARY to obtain an accurate reading of type and number of spores present. He will write a preliminary report, send the samples to an independent and accredited laboratory for analysis. Upon receiving the laboratory’s report, he will then complete his own investigative report, submitting the findings of the laboratory and make recommendations as to whether or not a Certified Mold Hygienist should be consulted. In this instance, yes, he will recommend the services, because the report findings show mold in quantities far above acceptable levels, with some areas of contamination showing mold types known for producing mycotoxins. The CMIV remains an observer, keeping his report findings unbiased, and a second documentation of pertinent information on the structure is being made.

The CMIV makes no recommendations for remediation, as this is part of the duties of the Certified Mold Hygienist; then the same CMIV may be used again should clearance testing be necessary and will provide the clearance letter. In this way, the clearance testing will be unbiased and there will be no conflicts of interest, as the clearance testing also serves as a system for ‘checks-and-balances.’

The role of a professional MAA-Certified Mold Hygienist (CMH)
This professional performs a variety of high level functions with respect to mold for residential and commercial properties. However, for industrial properties, the MAA recommends the services of a Certified Industrial Hygienist, or a Certified Environmental Hygienist, as these large properties require a much higher level of technical education and experience specific to industrial needs. Although, this does not mean that a CIH or a CEH may not be used for residential or commercial properties, it is simply that the level of expertise of a CIH or CEH may not necessarily be needed for these properties. However, although the choice of the level of hygienist preferred is left to the client, we recommend that an MAA-certified Mold Hygienist, an MAA-certified Residential Hygienist or an MAA-certified Commercial Hygienist be considered, as each have specific and distinct specialty areas. Among the functions of the CMH are analyses of all tests performed thus far, and a highly in-depth review of the structure and problems noted. The CMH recommends the services of an allergist or physician, if needed. The CMH educates and trains clients in mold awareness, hygiene and how to better manage risk of mold infestation. The CMH also recommends for remediation if necessary, to what level and degree it is necessary, and writes the remediation protocols. The CMH oversees the remediation process and ensures guidelines are followed. The CMH is also responsible for writing the clearance testing requirements of the project. The CMH will also have previous experience as a CMI, a CMIV, and as a Certified Mold Remediator (CMR) because they must ensure that all reports thus far are correct and to guidelines, and also because they write the remediation and clearance testing protocols, which can only be done properly with previous experience in these areas.

The Hygiene process should consist of a number of steps: discussion of the scope of the process (what it will involve, and sometimes called the Survey) and the reasons for why the services are warranted, signing an agreement for the services to be performed, including a confidentiality agreement, an in-depth questionnaire for the client concerning a number of different issues with respect to the property, the inhabitants, and the environments; an overview and double-check of the all reports thus far, and additional observations made during the process. If remediation is recommended, the CMH will write the remediation protocols and the clearance testing requirements and a preliminary report will be made.

Individuals with a broad range of environmental knowledge and skills who are highly accurate and have a biological, clinical, microbiological, or environmental science, or other technically trained background in addition to a thorough knowledge of structures make good CMHs. Individuals who work as physical engineers, mechanical engineers, or in the field of indoor air quality or other technically trained professionals, and the like, often also obtain a certification as a hygienist. They make ideal CMHs, since they are already performing, or have performed, work of a similar scope, and they may then offer these services in addition to the services they may already be providing.

It is critical that your CMH be unbiased and performs their work with a high degree of accuracy and to scientific principles. It is also critical that the Hygienist be well versed in the regulatory requirements for Hazardous Materials, Biohazards, Safety, and Universal Precautions. To avoid any conflict of interest, the CMH should NOT be the same individual as your Inspector, Investigator or Remediator, as this individual oversees and double-checks all work performed. Why should this be so?

For example:

A commercial property has been inspected by a CMI, who recommended obtaining services of a CMIV. The CMIV, upon receiving the laboratory report, recommended further services of an MAA-certified Commercial Hygienist. The CH found it necessary for this structure to be remediated, as the findings showed Stachybotrys present, and there were 167 personnel working inside the structure who were being exposed to the spores. These personnel were reporting incidences of symptoms associated with Stachybotrys exposure. The CH recommended that these personnel seek the services of a qualified physician or allergist. The CH also wrote the remediation protocols and the guidelines for clearance testing. After the remediation was completed, the original CMIV performed clearance testing per the CH’s guidelines. The structure did not clear testing. The CMH must then discover WHY it did not clear testing. There are many possibilities: It could be that the remediation was not performed to standard within certain areas, or it could be that something was missed, or it could be that a completely different problem exists which must be resolved, such as no visible residue, inaccessible areas or voids within the structure, unseen areas or voids within or near the structure containing molds, or other highly unusual or unforeseen circumstances. Whatever the reason, the CH is responsible for ensuring that the quality of work is performed to standard and that the problems are resolved until all areas clear testing. So you see, if the CH were the Inspector, Investigator or Remediator, they would then be clearing their own work, rather than clearing some else’s work.

The role of a professional MAA-Certified Mold Remediator (CMR)
This professional performs mold remediation services (often called mitigation or removal) on residential, commercial and industrial properties, consisting of removing ALL components and contents which are infested with hazardous or toxic mold within the structure(s), clean-up of those contents where possible, proper removal of hazardous debris to an appropriate facility, and submitting a comprehensive report of the work completed during services to the client. An MAA-Certified Mold Remediator (CMR) will have experience in hazardous materials handling (HAZMAT) and will be trained in universal precautions and regulatory requirements for pesticide application (with respect to biocides and fungicides). The remediation will consist of a number of steps: discussion of the scope of the remediation (what it will involve) and the reasons for remediation with both the CMH and the client, signing an agreement for the remediation to be performed, including a confidentiality agreement, the actual remediation itself, and a report of services actually performed while providing services, noting any recommendations and observations.

MAA-certified professionals with knowledge of structures, or those who have a background in some type of general contracting or repair work, and individuals who perform abatement services often also obtain a certification for mold remediation. They make ideal remediators, since they are already performing, or have performed, remediation work of a similar scope, and they may then offer these services in addition to the general services they may already be providing.

When remediation work is being performed, it should be completed with care and respect for the client’s property and privacy, and should be done with a high degree of efficiency, and according to regulatory guidelines and the CMH’s written plan. The Certified Mold Remediator (CMR) should NOT be the same individual as your CMH, CMI or CMIV. Some CMRs offer restoration services if they have the necessary qualifications, credentialing and licensing from appropriate agencies.

It is important to note, that if remediation services are required, that it will be expensive. Remediation work is specialized-labor intensive, requires the use of expensive specialized equipment, and requires the handling of hazardous materials in much less than pleasant work conditions. Please do not expect remediation services at a price that is not consistent with the needs to complete the work. Some agencies and some companies expect remediation work at bids so low that it forces the remediator to make a choice between cutting back on the specialized labor or the control standards (which affects quality). A good, well-versed and trained remediator would not remediate such projects.

For example:

A CMH has determined that a residential property needs remediation, as it was found that there were high levels of Penicillium, Stachybotrys and Aspergillus in most of the living areas of the residence. The CMH writes the remediation protocols and the guidelines for clearance testing. The CMR bids on the remediation, but the insurance company kicks back the bid as being too high. A second and third bid produce the same result. During this timeframe, the residents of the structure are not living in their home, and the expense of a hotel is adding up quickly. Until a remediator is found which can bid the project so low, the mold continues grow and further contaminate additional areas of the structure. Eventually a remediator is found, but by this time, the size of the project has grown, and a new protocol must be written. This continues until someone recognizes that it will eventually cost more than originally bid.

On the other hand, you also need to be careful to avoid gouging by a remediator.

For example:

In the same scenario above, the client gets three bids from local remediators. Of these three bids, two are similar in pricing, but one is much higher than the other two. All quotes include the remediation to the protocols of the CMH, all three bids state similar qualifications of individuals with same amount of labor hours involved. None of the three bids include restoration services. This may be an example of a remediator bidding higher than is warranted. However, the third bidder should be telephoned and questioned per the bid and what is included, because he may have taken additional steps in certain areas not noted on the hygienist’s report, or there may be unlisted work not on the written bid. Whichever is the case, it is important to obtain three quotes and go with the best quote for the work to be performed, taking into account the quality of the remediator, making certain the quotes are for the same services and number of labor hours. This should give you a fair idea of what is an acceptable bid range. A precautionary note: do not sacrifice quality for price.

MAA Masters Certified Mold Specialists (MCMS)
This designation is offered by the MAA to those professionals who have demonstrated a high quality of excellence within their past and combined designation fields. Those who have achieved this designation will carry seven specialized category designations along with their basic designations.

Those who have achieved all seven levels and have passed the written and field examinations, and completed their thesis, will carry the MCMS designation. For those who are in the process of achieving it, they may carry the following in addition to their basic category(ies):

• A Certified Mold Inspector may also carry:
• Visual Control Inspector (VCI)
• A Certified Mold Investigator may also carry:
• Control Assessment Investigator (CAI)
• Control and Clearance Testing Inspector (CCTI)
• A Certified Mold Remediator may also carry:
• Defect Correction Contractor (DCC)
• A Certified Mold Hygienist may also carry:
• Residential Hygienist (RH)
• Commercial Hygienist (CH)
• Environmental Hygienist (EH)

Masters Certified courses offered through the MAA take at least three years to obtain, and all course examinations, both written and field, are pass-fail with no errors accepted. These highly skilled Specialists will know the "whole structure" and will be able to define the cause of any mold-related issue. They are the leadership of the industry and the most knowledgeable of all mold professionals.

Keeping all of these roles in mind should help you in choosing a well-qualified MAA-certified professional to perform the mold services you require. There are always things you should ask any professional when searching for services:

• Check credentials -- make certain they have been certified;
• Ask where they obtained their certification;
• Ask how long they have been performing the services;
• Ask for references

If you choose a professional who is a member of the MAA, they will carry with them an identification card that displays our logo with their membership number. You may call our offices at any time and we will assist you in finding information about these professionals that will be helpful. We will be able to tell you about their work history, client referrals to our office, customer compliments and complaints, or whether they have any regulatory citations against their work record. We can also provide you with a list of qualified individuals in good standing who meet our stringent guidelines from which you can select for quotes. We can help by providing answers to any questions you may have concerning your needs for mold services. And, the MAA can offer you a list of those individuals who have been trained by our organization, ensuring that you receive the highest quality services.

Why should professionals and technicians entering my premises be MAA-certified?
All Mold Assessment Association members join with us because they share the same mission, vision and values with respect to both the public’s and the industry’s issues of mold and toxic mold; and so their efforts and purposes, and their provision of services (whatever the specialty) are united. All members adhere to and respect our motto and the twelve canons of our code of ethics.

With respect to you, the consumer of these services, MAA-certified professionals and technicians offer the following benefits:

• Four specialized categories of mold assessment professionals, each dedicated to performing his/her specialty function knowledgeably and precisely to provide higher quality services and to serve as an association-based system of checks and balances for quality control;
• Masters Certified Mold Specialists who have been through a rigorous seven-stage certification program, offering the highest level of specialization in mold assessment services;
• MAA-certified professionals and technicians from related trades who have been specially trained in a mold awareness program specific to their specialty areas, including: home inspectors, termite and pest control technicians, plumbers, HVAC technicians and other indoor air quality specialists, builders and general contractors, repair and home improvement contractors, remodeling and/or restoration specialists, electricians, paint and wallpaper technicians, and the like;
• MAA-certified professionals and technicians from a vast array of industries that are affected by mold-related issues who have been specially trained in a mold awareness program specific to their professions, including: attorneys, clinicians, insurance agents and adjusters, real estate agents and brokers, property managers, scientists, teachers, and the like;
• MAA members participate in an association-based benchmarking program, which opens new pathways for continuous quality and performance improvement with respect to the provision of their services;
• MAA members participate in data exchange and analyses programs to assist appropriate agencies in current and future mold research; and
• Obtaining the services of an MAA member means having the combined strength of the above knowledges and specialties working together to solve mold-related issues and problems, with the goal of public well-being and better serving the mold assessment needs of each and every consumer of those services.

And finally, as a not-for-profit organization, we thank in advance all of the generous individuals from both the membership and the South Carolina community-at-large, for their dues and donations. These donations serve to help provide the very best in training specialists and training equipment, speakers for public forums, and in providing economic relief for certain individuals within the South Carolina community that have been severely and adversely affected by mold. In special thanks to those who have made donations, their names are posted on our Donations list.

Those who may be interested in making donations for these programs, may do so by calling our office and requesting a Donation form at (843) 744-3310. All donors will be posted on the listing, which will soon be making its way to this web site.